Saturday, November 26, 2011

shrinkage cracks in the Seat

I sanded the seat after it came out of the clamps and at the back, it looked like this:




So it is time to do the wood filler trick. I do not buy retail wood filler, I make my own.

This time I used a combo of Titebond liquid hide glue and some sanding dust from the filter bag on my excellent Ridgid random orbital sander with variable speed.

Stir it together to form a thick paste and use a small spatula to force it into the cracks.  Here is what the filler kit looks like. I keep vials of dust from a variety of wood species and use various glues to make the paste, from Weldbond to hide glue to epoxies, depending on circumstances and what effect I am looking for. This time I want the filler to show as a dark line.


So here is the filler 


When sanded clean the cracks show dark.

Next trick is to show you how I sand the rungs.


Here is a picture of the setup.

Note: The lathe is unplugged since I am going to rotate it by hand. I have also disconnected the drive pully from the motor so I can turn the shaft easily.

You will note also that I have a Jacob's chuck in the lathe on a Morse taper. It allows me to grip small stuff for turning and other work without cutting a cross in the end for a standard lathe turning fitting.

The tail piece with its ball bearing pointy head keeps the rung on the level, and I merely run the sander along the rung on slow while turning the rung slowly by hand.

My sander is connected directly to my shop vac for efficient dust control.

Tune in soon for a discussion of how to deal with the way the legs fit under the warped seat and how to move the holes around to suit the new geometry.

You might be amazed by my cleverness. Or not.

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